-article contributed by Trogdor
I think the first time I saw Plagueworms they were done by HoHo the Conqueror. I was blown away at the concept. It wasn't a crazy hard conversion, but the effect was so nice and thematically it fit perfectly. I knew one day I would have to follow suit when I made my Nurgle Legion and now that I've started, I figured I take you all along for the ride.
First thing to do is to clip off the legs with either some heavy duty side clippers or you can use a modeling saw. Don't try it with a hobby knife. It will take you forever and it's much more dangerous than the saw or clippers. In the pic below, you'll actually see that I cut off the blades of the Plaguebearers too. If you like them, go ahead and keep them. I'm not a fan, so I took them off and replaced them using an idea I saw that Qrab did. More on those blades later.
The next thing to do is to pin the bottom of the bodies to the base. I use a drill and sink my pin in deep. I also use a good length of pin to leave room for the body of the worm. You'll want to take notice of where you pin the body to the base and make a mental note of how the body will have to bend to fit nicely on the base. You'll also see that I make a sharp L bend in the bottom of the pin. I do that so I have more to anchor the pin to the base when I glue it down. Much more stable. In fact, if I can, anything that I pin through the bottom of the base will get an L bend in it.
I'm going to make some big nasty cleavers for these guys. I love the big brutal choppy look of the cleaver and it's really easy to do. In the pic above you can actually see how I made some of the blades. I use a thin sheet of plasticard. You can get this stuff online or some places like magazine/comic shops have them. They use them as dividers for different sections of books in a bin. I have a couple of different pieces in the pic below showing a larger piece and how I cut it into strips and then cut it down to the right length and then cut out the rough shape. You can cut these blanks out simply with a pair of scissors if the plasticard is thin enough.
Once you have the general shape you want for your blade, create the edge. I use a sharp Xacto knife and cut the blade side at about a 45 degree angle on both sides as shown in the pic below.
Now, don't worry about getting a perfectly straight and even sharp edge. If you were making blades for someone besides Nurgle, maybe you'd worry about it. In that case, you can even use a file to help with making your edge. Nurgle like things brutal and choppy though so make the edge in multiple cuts with some deeper than others and you'll start to see how mean these cleavers can be. I also like to notch up the cleaver all around to give it the feel like it has been in heavy use and been used for blocking etc. Once you have your edge the way you like it, I like to dedicate these blades to Nurgle by drilling out 3 holes in them like how the mark of Nurgle looks. Then I'll pin the blade so it can be securely fastened to the model. If you don't pin it, I can't imagine the blade staying on even with gobs and gobs of glue. Use a small bit and small guage wire and drill straight into the blade.
Pin the blades to the Plague Bearers and you'll end up with something like this.
I've also shown what I'm going to use for the sculpting of the bodies. It's called Apoxie Sculpt and it's a 2 part epoxy putty that is used pretty much like Green Stuff. It's pretty inexpensive especially compared to Green Stuff. I used it for projects that will have quite a bit of bulk and don't need extremely fine detail. Green stuff has better elasticity and holds fine detail better but for these worm bodes, this stuff works perfectly. It cures harder than green stuff and is available in many colors. Mine is white. When HoHo first did his, I believe he used Crayola Magic Sculpt. It is also easy to work with and inexpensive but doesn't cure rock hard like Apoxie Sculpt or even GS does.
You mix it in equal parts of A and B and knead it like you would Green Stuff until it is non-streaky. It smooths very nicely with just a little water so I prefer this stuff where a smooth surface is required. While it may not hold the fine detail like Green Stuff, it does smooth up easier. It does leave some residue on your fingers as you mix it but that comes off very easily with some water. Once it is mixed, I roll out a length of the putty and begin to wrap around the pin.
From here, you have to experiment a bit with what look you want. You can go for a smooth slug like body or the caterpillar rolls or anything else. Use your imagination and make Papa Nurgle proud! Pay attentention to where the body bends where it meets the ground. You'll want this to look natural so Google up some images for a reference. Once you're done, base the model to your liking and start painting! I used a mix of wall plaster, sand, and white glue for my bases.
Paint them up however you like and start enjoying these guys in battle! I'll probably try and do similar things for my Plague Riders and I'll post up some pics of those when I get them done. Here is the finished project. Hope you enjoyed the read.
*Article contributed by Sphincter Man*
Here is a tutorial I came up with on making you own custom movement trays.
Part 2 is my method of finishing the trays/ bases on my models. Of course you can change it to suit you!
Also, I’m doing this one for my 12 horrors, but you can do it for any model.
To start off, here are the tools you will need:
Plastic Sprues (the kind you get for mortal warriors.)
Sharp modelling knife.
Large Set Square (The bigger the better.)
Models for the movement tray!
MDF (Otherwise known as “Masonlite”)
Superglue (or any other strong glue available)
Wire cutters/ clippers
Part 2 (optional)
Chaos Black Spray
1. Measure the base of your figures and how wide and deep you want the tray to be. Draw a grid on the MDF. My MDF has a laminated, white surface on one side. I write on the other side, which is more like cardboard.
2. Add 4mm to each side and the front of the grid (you’ll see later.)
This is what it should look like:
3. Cut around the outside lines you have mad on the MDF *CUT OUTSIDE THE LINES*
4.break the MDF, bending away from the laminated surface (otherwise the entire back will tear in the wrong place.
5. use the wire cutters or clippers to cut ON the outside lines, this will leave a clean, flat edge.
6. Take a plastic sprue and cut off one of the flat edges.
6. Cut one for each side of the tray, this will make up the frame of the tray.
7. cut the edges at a 45o
8. Superglue the sprues to the tray, on the 4mm border you marked earlier.
9. make sure the models fit!!!
1. basecoat the tray with chaos black spray.
2. Add sand and base with Black Ink.
3. Drybrush heavily with Codex Grey.
4. Lighter Drybrush with Fortress Grey.
5. Check to make sure everything is matching.
6. This is where it gets messy. Add flock/ Static grass. I use the straw from the “Hero Basing Kit”, it suits my theme! it’s messy but it has great results.
7. Now I mix 2 parts water effects to 1 part Snow Flock. Where I am going to put the snow I heavily drybrush skull white. At first it looks wrong but it dries ok, I’m still working on the quantities.
I’m also making one for my Changebringers!
Thanks for reading guys, any comments are very welcome!
*Small addition by Trogdor*
MAGNATIZING YOUR MOVEMENT TRAYS
There are many benifits to magnatizing your models. You can store and transport your models already ranked up and ready to go saving you precious playing time. Large, heavy, and fragile models are much more unlikely to fall while being moved saving you repair time and cuss words. There are a few methods for magnetizing your bases. You can place metal plates on the bottom of your models and use a sheet of flexible magnet to line the movement tray. You can put the magnet on the bottom of your bases and use a metal liner for your trays, or you can put magnets on both the baeses of your models and the tray.
My reccomendation is use metal plates on your model and use sheet magnet for the base. The simplest way to get the metal plates is to go to WargameAccessories.com and check out their products. http://www.wargameaccessories.com/wargameaccessories/Products.htm They make a number of common sizes including 20mm, 25mm, and cavalry bases. The square bases will line up flush with the base it is glued to. Make sure to glue the base on before you paint because probably the simplest way to glue the base on will be to squirt out some glue on a plate or plastic blister turned up and dip the base lightly into it and then match up the metal plate. You WILL get glue on your hands so rubber gloves are highly reccomended. Sheet magnets are available at many places. An example is found here http://www.magnetsales.com/Flexible/Sheet.htm. You can also use magnets that attach to buisness cards like here. http://www.armourdiecutting.com/magblanks/ Hobby stores commonly stock this stuff so it shouldn't be hard to find. You can find them in many colors and the backs are adhesive. You can cut them easily with a sharp Xacto knife. Just make sure to cut against a straight edge to keep the cut straight. After you have cut the magnet to fit the inside of the movement tray, peel off the paper exposing the adhesive and stick it in.
You can also peel off the back of the magnet and expose the adhesive first. Then set your base down on it and cut around the base to fit. If you are going to line the tray with metal, you can either glue the metal bases found above into the tray or if you have the ability to cut thin sheet metal, you can custom fit the metal. That is harder to do, but if you can, go for it. Or you can cut metal out of it entirely and line both the models and the base with magnet. This approach doesn't seem quite as strong though.
I used the metal plates and magnetized the tray and this was the result. Can your movement trays do this?